Pruning makes plants bloom: Fruit trees and shrubs guide

For many gardeners, pruning fruit trees and bushes is the most exciting job of the year. It sometimes feels unnatural to put shears to a healthy plant. Yet, pruning is essential if you want to enjoy a basket full of juicy fruit every year. By strategic cutting, you ensure that the plant's energy doesn't go to excess leaves, but directly to the development of plump, sweet fruits. Additionally, an open structure allows sunlight to better reach the ripening fruits.

Timing: when do you prune the plant?

There isn't one universal time to prune every fruit plant. The correct timing largely depends on the type of fruit growing in your garden. We primarily distinguish between pome fruits and stone fruits.

Pome fruits, such as apples and pears, are very hardy. These trees are preferably pruned in winter, somewhere between January and March. The big advantage of winter pruning is that the tree is bare, allowing you to perfectly see the shape of the branches. Make sure you absolutely do not prune when it's freezing or when severe frost is expected, as the pruning wounds can freeze and get damaged.

Stone fruits, including cherries, plums, and peaches, require a completely different approach. These trees are susceptible to fungi and diseases if pruned in winter. Therefore, you should prune them in late summer, immediately after harvesting in August or September. The tree is then still active enough to quickly heal the pruning wounds before winter sets in.

For fruit bushes like raspberries and blackberries, you primarily look at the branches that have borne fruit this year. These old branches die after harvest and can be pruned back to the ground in autumn or early spring, allowing young shoots plenty of space.

The basic rules for healthy pruning

Regardless of which fruit plant you're working on, the basic philosophy behind pruning always remains the same. You always start by removing what is called 'deadwood'. These are dry, withered branches that will no longer bear blossoms. After that, you focus on damaged or diseased branches to prevent any infections from spreading throughout the rest of the tree.

Another important rule is to remove crossing branches. When two branches rub against each other due to the wind, wounds appear in the bark. These are ideal entry points for diseases. In such a situation, always choose the weakest or least favorably placed branch and prune it completely away.

Finally, pay attention to so-called water shoots. These are branches that shoot straight up, often from the main branches. Water shoots grow incredibly fast and consume a lot of energy, but they will almost never bear fruit. By cutting away these upright shoots entirely, the tree remains compact, and all its strength goes to the fruit-bearing branches.

The secret to the perfect cut

Besides determining which branches need to be removed, the cutting method itself is also an art. Always use sharp and clean pruning shears. A dull pair of shears causes ragged wounds that heal poorly, while dirty shears can transmit diseases from one plant to another.

When shortening a branch, always cut it about half a centimeter above a healthy bud. This bud should ideally point outwards. This ensures that the new branch growing from it will also grow outwards, creating the desired open and airy canopy. Also, always cut the branch at an angle. The slanted cut ensures that rainwater easily drains from the wound, minimizing the chance of fungal growth and rot.

The next step to a healthy fruit garden

Now that the basics of pruning are clear, your fruit plant has the perfect shape to grow optimally. An open, healthy structure is also the first step in deterring unwanted guests. Do you want to know how to effectively protect your emerging blossoms and young fruits from hungry birds and persistent pests? Then read on in our next article.